The Rimchair Issue
Some assembly required.
Measuring the Drop Zone
What's a rimchair?
The Oxford English Rim Seat
Beautiful Homes and Rim Seats
News and Weather
Florida Rim Seat warning
Get serious. This is how to use one.
What do you know?
All the King's Horses
And that’s just what you’ll be hearing a lot of if you build the easy to assemble rim chair I’m about to describe in article.
If you are into butt-munching, or having your butt munched (and who isn’t) then you’ll want to head right out to your local hardware store and do some shopping. Well you might be saying you aren’t into rimming! (Not in this crowd)
Consider this. A well-built rim chair can serve a few ‘other’ useful functions as well:
Let’s go shopping
The materials for this project have been picked for three main things, easy assembly, easy clean-up, and low cost. Starting with the easy assembly part consider this, any lunk-head who can screw two pipes together can build this project. Cleans up quick with soap and water. All the parts are inexpensive ‘off the shelf’ items carried by any decent hardware store.
I assume that every self-respecting male on the planet has a toolbox! I also assume that toolbox to be stuffed with every imaginable gadget and tool known to man (mine is), but for those of you who may have been sleeping when the good fairy passed out the tool-boxes here’s what you’ll need to have on hand.
Here’s a list of parts to pick up at the hardware store.
First, try to pick up the hunky floor clerk who is helping you find all this stuff and is barraging you with questions about your project such as “what are you building?”. If your answer doesn’t scare the crap out of him (these guys have been around) then you may proceed to invite him over to help with the assembly and testing. Throw in a romantic candlelight dinner after testing just for fun.
NOTE: Metal pipes and fittings are all ½ inch size with NPT pipe threads on both ends.
Grab all of your floor flanges, unions, 5 inch nipple ends, and assorted wrenches.
Thread the four floor flanges onto one end of four of the 5 inch nipples and tighten with your wrenches. Lay these aside.
Thread the four unions onto one end of the remaining four 5 inch nipples, tighten, and lay these aside.
Make sure the unions are all facing the same direction. Whew… we did it! That wasn’t so hard.
Lower assembly. You’ll need all eight of those pieces you made in step one, plus the four T-connectors, AND two 18 inch pipes.
When we’re done you’ll have two identical assemblies shaped like the capital letter “H” with the 18 inch pipes connecting the two upright sides.
First, assemble four identical pieces as follows:
Into the ends of the “T” connectors screw one nipple with floor flange to one end, one nipple with union into the other end.
You now have an assembly in this order, floor flange, nipple, t-connector, nipple, and union.
Make three more just like that one!
Now, see those holes left in each of the t-connectors? Screw the 18 inch pipes into them.
Now wrench everything together good and tight. When you’re done the floor flanges will be at the bottom of the “H”, the unions at the top.
Hey, you’re looking really good. Anyone want be a plumber full time?
Upper assembly. Take the unions from step #2 apart, noting carefully how they’ll go back together.
You’ll need the freed ends for this next step.
Tighten the freed ends of the unions to the four 6 inch nipples.
On two of the 6 inch nipples thread on a 90 degree elbow.
Now, look very closely at the picture of the side outlet elbow.
You see two holes facing you and one hole facing up. Thread the hole ‘facing up’ onto the other two 6 inch nipples.
Thread the 24 inch pipe between the two side outlet elbow assemblies you just finished.
Orient the two holes in the ends the same direction.
Thread the two remaining 18 inch pipes into the remaining two holes in both side outlet elbows.
Slip two metal rings over each of the 18 inch pipes, then thread both pipes with the open ends of the 90 degree elbows that you assembled in the first part of this step.
If you did this correctly the four union halves in the upper assembly will line up with the four union halves on the lower “H” assembly. They line up… GREAT, almost done!
Line up the four unions and re-assemble them tightly.
You should have a complete framework, ready for the finishing touches.
You may have to tweak pipes here and there to get everything to line up and be square.
Make sure all four floor flanges (the feet) are on the floor squarely. No wobbles allowed.
Cut the foam pipe insulation to fit the two 18 inch pipes and the one 24 inch pipe.
Slide the metal rings as far apart as they will go and install the foam insulation on the 18 inch pipes.
Install the last piece of foam insulation on the 24 inch pipe.
Wrap the foam with duct tape, or another suitable tape. This keeps the foam in place and since this foam isn’t intended for a lot of abuse the tape will keep it clean, protected, and together.
Now slip the metal rings over the foam insulation, attach a hobbyhorse spring to each ring and then attach the other end of the springs to the metal plates on the seat.
Voila! You are done! Ride that baby into the sunset, pardner!
A printable (PDF) version of these instructions is available in our file sharing area The Dumps